10 ROOKIE STYLE MISTAKES How to suit up like a pro Style is more about knowing how to dress than what to wear. Trends come and go, what to wear varies from season to season, but how you dress marks the truly stylish man. So even though we sell custom clothing and it would probably be in our best interest to tell you exactly what to wear, we’re not going to do that here. Instead, with this manual, we’ll teach you how to avoid 10 frequently seen mistakes when you’re suiting up. You see a button and a buttonhole so you use them…all of them. Makes sense. Too bad it’s a faux pas. You never need to button the bottom button on a suit jacket or a blazer with more than one button. The story behind this tradition is long and boring, so we’ll spare you the details and just ask that you trust us on this one.
MISTAKE #1: Buttoning all the buttons on your suit jackets and blazers Bottom buttons are not meant to be fastened. Leave it undone to capture the same suave look as the gents in these photos.
MISTAKE #2: Not showing any shirt cuff Nothing looks more like you’re wearing your father’s suit than a sleeve that swallows up your shirt sleeve. If your shirt sleeve doesn’t peek out from under your jacket (we recommend between 0.25” and 0.5”) you’ve got one of two problems: either your shirt sleeve is too short or your jacket sleeve is too long. Either way, get thee to a tailor with the quickness. Or better yet, start wearing clothes that fit you flawlessly. All things in moderation, including your shirt cuff. This guy has it right. Let enough peek below your jacket sleeve to keep them interested. Nothing says styled by retail like a matching pocket square and tie. These atrocities usually come in over-saturated, satiny solids, like a royal purple silk tie and matching silk pocket square. The resulting look is amateur hour all the way. While a matching set of jacket and pants (a suit) may be the epitome of men’s style, accessories, like ties and pocket squares, should vary in pattern or shade in some way.
MISTAKE #3: Matching pocket square and tie sets
MISTAKE #4: Wearing Out of Style Shoes You could wear a pair of the finest, Italian calfskin, bench-made, square toe shoes and you’d still be wearing square toe shoes. Which is to say you’ll look like you stepped out of a time machine sent from the 90s. The solution to this problem is to invest in timeless styles. A quality pair of cap-toe oxfords, brogues or derbies aren’t designed to be on trend today. These fad proof styles are the way to go since a well made pair of shoes should last you over 10 years with proper care. Shoes can make or break even the most dapper outfit. These men prove that whether you’re heading out for work or play, choosing quality and classic is always the right choice.
MISTAKE #5: Wearing a crew neck undershirt with an open collared dress shirt Good for you for wearing an undershirt. The rewards are great. But there is one risk. That little bit of white cotton forming a triangle at the base of your neck is not working. A V-neck or tank top undershirt is mandatory when you’re not wearing a tie. A little skin is sexy. A visible undershirt? Not so much. Don’t let the effortless cool of an open collar shirt be tarnished with a visible strip of an undershirt.
MISTAKE #6: Puddling Pant Length The express train to Scrub City stops at Pants Too Long Station and a lot of guys get on board. But that wad of fabric flapping around your ankles wasn’t cool back in the 2003 NBA draft when LeBron and company set a record for the worst group of suits ever (he’s more than made up for it since), and it’s not cool now. The worst part is, this is the most basic tailoring alteration known to man, so there are no excuses. If you’re an offender, you can no longer plead ignorance. If you can’t see the bow on your shoelaces, you might have a problem. Don’t let your pants rain all over your shoes Avoid the puddle. Get your pants hemmed.
MISTAKE #7: Using a cummerbund as a belt Do you see that shirt waist? Of course you don’t, because of the well placed cummerbund doing its job, not holding up the pants, but covering up the waist… Although a cummerbund goes around your waist, its purpose is not to hold your pants up. A cummerbund is worn because it is considered improper to show your waist in black tie. It is also considered a tuxedo no-no to wear a belt. In fact, your formal pants shouldn’t even have belt loops. So how do you keep your pants in place when you’re wearing a tuxedo? With suspenders, of course. A pair of formal suspenders (known as “braces” by our cousins across the pond) in black or white is a sharp addition to a black tie outfit.
MISTAKE #8: Wearing a tuxedo imposter It seems like a tuxedo. Maybe the guy who sold or rented it to you said it was a tuxedo (Did you check out his style, by the way? You sure you want to take advice from that guy?), but it’s not a tuxedo. If it has a notch lapel or belt loops or pants cuffs, it’s an imposter, a black matching garment masquerading as a tux. The rules of black tie are virtually etched in stone and time hasn’t eroded them much. A proper formal dinner suit (aka tuxedo) must have either peak or shawl lapels, no belt loops and non-cuffed pants.
MISTAKE #9: Wearing your tie too long (or short) Your tie point should end at the center of your belt buckle. This is an important proportion. If your tie is too long it looks like you’re going to your First Communion wearing your big brother’s tie. Wear it too short and you create a no man’s land where your tie ends and your stomach is exposed. Either way it reeks of sartorial laziness since solving this problem simply requires re-tying your tie. A tie can bring together the whole outfit, but only if it’s in proportion. Keep your tie the right length and just like this gent, let your tie be the star of your sartorial show.
MISTAKE #10: Pinstripe jackets and jeans The pinstripe suit is a classic. So are a great pair of jeans. But trying to put them together is like wearing socks with flip-flops. The two styles are just too far apart. Pinstripes should create long lines down your body. Interrupting the lines is already a bad idea. Interrupting the lines with a casual fabric like denim should be avoided at all costs. We love to mix things up, but pinstripes and jeans are two styles that never blend well. Try a sportier pattern like a Glen plaid or windowpane to give your blazers some character. We believe a sharply dressed man in a custom suit can accomplish anything because when you dress your best, you feel your best. And feeling your best gives you the confidence to do your best. We can help you achieve that level of confidence using the power of custom clothing with a uniquely flawless fit.
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